Chinese artists , such as Zhang Xiagong, Zeng Fanzhi and Ai Weiwei, are well known figures in the contemporary art world. The Chinese art market is massively important, with auction prices, though below their peak, tending to hold better than in the West.
There is still a huge body of art investors in mainland China, mostly from the trading and finance centres of Southern China. However, the artists and associated galleries tend to be based in Beijing, the traditional intellectual centre of China.
Famously, Meg Maggio of Pékin Fine Arts, interviewed for Wallpaper Magazine*, reported that there were too many Beijing Art Districts for her to enumerate. However, a general consensus would focus on 798 Art Zone, Art Today Museum and International Art Plaza and Caochangdi Village.
Each of these has a different ambiance, to some extent,a different purpose. Taken, though, as a group, the offer is art and handcraft for all tastes and all pockets. Equally, if all you wish to do is stroll around, chat with artists and gallery owners, take in coffee or a meal, that's fine.
If purchasing, the keynote in today’s volatile market, and given the difficulties of valuing contemporary Chinese art, is to buy for pleasure. The frothy days have gone. Your few dollars are unlikely to buy you into the next Yue Minjun, but was that, pre-Saatchi, supposed to be the point of art patronage?
798 Art Zone
798 Art Zone, also known as Dashanzi Art Zone, is located on an ex-industrial site of vast proportions that was a full campus for workers, who both lived and worked here, so such elements as kindergartens were included. China's first atomic bomb was developed here.
The campus was rich in many types of buildings, small and large. Factory 798 gave its name to the new Art Zone
798 is a major zone and presence in Beijing's burgeoning art world. It contains a huge number of galleries, artists' galleries, artists’ studios, handcraft and bookshops, not to mention innumerable restaurants, cafes and coffee shops.
Such famed galleries as Ullens Center For Contemporary Art are based here. Guy and Myriam Ullens, two Belgian art collectors, own one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary Chinese art.
Another major presence is 798 Space, located in the original 798 factory building. The space is extensive, the building Bauhaus-style, with curved roof. Some original factory machinery has been kept, together with Mao worker slogans that adorned the workspace.
My preference is for the smaller galleries and spaces. This ex-industrial area can feel like it’s now retailing art on an industrial scale. In fact, the campus is so art-rich that it’s easy to forget that the sculpture you are leaning against is an artwork.
A favourite of mine is Summit Art Space, a place where you can enter real discussion, particularly around main artist Zhang Bin, whose work is all self-portrait, in the tradition, if not style, of Yue Minjun. The bookshop here is, also, particularly valuable.
Another favourite is Fang Min Gallery, run by the artist. Fang Min is a zealous proponent of Buddhism, his paintings often exploring tolerance. It’s a must-see, but very little English is spoken here.
The smaller galleries bring back the intimacy of space and shared experience. It is good to talk at length with gallery owners that have a deep knowledge of their artists. In some cases you may speak with the artists themselves.
Art Today Museum and International Art Plaza
Today Art Museum is housed in an ex-brewery by the railway tracks in south-east Beijing. There’s something about the location that makes it feel cutting-edge.
The museum was inaugurated in 2006 with an exhibition of Fang Lijun’s work. It houses a permanent exhibition, albeit of on-loan items, and holds temporary exhibitions. There is an excellent bookstore, restaurant and souvenir shop, the whole redolent of Tate Modern. There’s also an art club and workshop facilities.
Art Today Museum was the brainchild of property developer Zhang Baoquan. As such, it is set in the Pingod Community of new apartment buildings, but wherein International Art Plaza is being developed.
The list of art galleries, boutiques, bars and bistros is endless.
Worthy of particular mention is Emily de Wolfe Petit’s Atkins and Ai Gallery, which works with both established and up-and-coming artists. There have been fascinating solo exhibitions of the work of Jiang Shan Chun and J S Tan. “Fantasia in Ink Major” featured the work of the young ink artists Qu Weiwei and Li Yongfei.
Caochangdi Village
When, in 1999, Ai Wewei, the colossus of Chinese contemporary art, established his studio and the Chinese Art and Archives Warehouse in Caochangdi Village, a former agricultural commune, he set a trend. In fact, Ai Weiwei also designed or built many of the other studios and galleries in the area.
Caochangdi is a purposeful area of scattered ex-industrial buildings and new additions, much less visitor friendly than, say, 798. Don’t visit for the bistros.
Any survey of Caochangdi must suggest a visit to Ai Weiwei’s own Chinese Art and Archives Warehouse. It focuses on cutting-edge young Chinese artists. Opening is 1pm to 6pm, Wednesday to Sunday.
Other major galleries are Pékin Fine Arts and F2 Gallery, which include Western artists. Galerie Urs Meile is also involved with Western, as well as Chinese artists; and offers an artist in-residence programme for Western artists. Three Shadows Photography Art Centre is, arguably, Beijing’s leading venue for fine art photography.
Location and Getting There
798 Art Zone, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing: Take Subway Line 10 to Sanyuanqiao Station. Take Exit B for 401 bus or taxi.
Art Today Museum and International Art Plaza, Pingod Community, Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing: Take Subway Line 10 to Shuangjing Station. Take Exit B, ignoring Exit B1 as you ascend. You come up by Mr Pizza. Turn right and walk 50 metres. You are now at Shuanjing Bridge; and may take a taxi. Alternatively, now turn right along Dongsanhuan Zhonglu (signposted Middle Road of 3rd Ring Road), walking for circa 900 metres. You now make a right turn into Baiziwan Lu, the complex being on the right side of the road, after a short walk.
Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang District, Beijing: As per 798 Art Zone. Take taxi from Sanyuanqiao Station. Remember, taxis back can be difficult.
* Wallpaper, June 15, 2009
Mark Azavedo - I am very well travelled as a professional writer and photographer. I also undertake destination research for the travel industry. My ...
Join the Conversation