Beijing’s Nanluoguxiang Hutong is an area that must be visited when you’re in the city. It excites me, in equal measure, as a shopper, gourmet and student of urban regeneration. It enthrals young Beijingers too.
Nanluoguxiang Hutong – A Brief History
Nanluoguxiang Hutong has an 800 year history. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was an area for the well-to-do, typically princes, lords, high-ranking military officers and high-level officials. Men of letters and well-known artists also lived here.
This wealthy, high-status and tasteful body of patrons led to Nanluoguxiang, and associated hutongs, being rich in 'siheyuan' or traditional courtyards. Further, the courtyards displayed various accoutrements, displaying one's status, such as dismounting stones, for those on horseback.
Note that a total of 16 other hutongs, alleys of single-storey buildings, spine off Nanluoguxiang’s 768 metres, eight to the east, eight to the west. The whole area is full of historic buildings.
Nanluoguxiang Hutong and Urban Regeneration.
In the post-Imperial years, Nanluoguxiang became rundown, ripe for redevelopment. All too often, in China, that means the wreckers’ ball, followed rapidly by plate glass. Certainly, over the years, locals have had to come together and speak out against wholesale demolition of hutongs throughout the Goulou area, north of the Forbidden City.
In 1990, Nanluoguxiang Hutong became one of twenty-five cultural and historical protection areas in Beijing. It could be argued that then, the battle really began, meaning a battle for sympathetic restoration.
Purists might claim that with demolitions, widenings, changes to commercial use, that battle has been lost. Certainly, the breakneck speed of works to have the area ready for the 2008 Olympics didn’t help. Equally, a lot of the work was in the relatively uncontrolled hands of local people, given financial support by their local authority to improve their homes.
Compromises have been made, if unwittingly. However, I can’t but be captivated by the fact that both in terms of housing and a new commercial zone for small-scale businesses, Nanluoguxiang Hutong has been made relevant to a new age, its future guaranteed.
Nanluoguxiang Hutong – Now
Today, Nanluoguxiang Hutong has a magical mix of independent stores, often highly design-led, boutiques, cafes and restaurants. There are also various bars and Wiggy Jiggy’s Pub.
Some bar names to remember are Backward Bar, Here, Pass By and 16mm Bar.
A restaurant favourite of mine is Luogo Drum and Gong Fusion Restaurant. Dishes are , for the most part, determinedly Chinese, but served in a bistro ambience. I had a wonderful meal for Y76 on my last visit.
Other eating place to remember include Galud Tapas, Masala – Taste of India, Peking Downtown Backpackers Cafe, Sandglass Coffee, Tibet Cafe and Xia Xin’s Cafe. Fish Nation is known for its British-style fish and chips.
Fashion and handcraft stores are innumerable. The roll-call includes Life Fabric, Match Quotes, Plastered 8, PMT Interesting Photos, Simple Life and Tibet.
Nanluoguxiang Hutong – Location and Getting There
Nanluoguxiang Hutong is located in Beijing’s Dongcheng District. It lies to the North of the Forbidden City, on a North-South axis. At the Hutong’s northern end is Gulou Dongdajie, Drum Tower East Street. At the southern end lies Di’anmen Dongdajie.
Nearest subway stations are Beixinqiao and Zhangzizhonglu. Both stations are on Line 5. Neither is particularly close to Nanluoguxiang Hutong. You might decide on a short taxi ride from the station, though the whole area is quite interesting to walk and browse.
Nearby attractions include the Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Houhai Lake and Guanghua Temple. Confucius Temple isn’t too far either.
Mark Azavedo - I am very well travelled as a professional writer and photographer. I also undertake destination research for the travel industry. My ...
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